Ox Lot 9 Revisited

            Last year, Bill had dinner at Ox Lot 9, located within the Southern Hotel in downtown Covington and he reviewed it on the blog. A few months ago, we highlighted the latest barbecue venture by the Ox Lot 9 team, Smoke BBQ, also located in Covington. Both establishments earned high marks the first time around. Last Saturday night, we revisited Ox Lot 9 with a group of nine people, including Doug and Mary, Benson and Liz and their two sons, Mary’s sister, Erlyn, and Doug’s daughter, Casey, and her husband, Chris. We’re happy to report that Ox Lot 9 continues to impress with its food and service.

            The menu focuses mainly on traditional Gulf Coast food, but with a fine dining twist. It features some American classics and even an Asian inspired dish or two, but Ox Lot 9 shines with its focus on the bounty of the Gulf. Maligned fish like Cobia, Pompano, and Red Snapper all feature prominently alongside soft-shell crab and ribeye. There is a clear emphasis on seasonality; the seared scallops featured a butternut squash puree and pumpkin seeds. The dishes are simply presented, allowing for the freshness of the ingredients to shine through. Since we wound up ordering a little bit of everything let’s dig deeper into a few of the dishes.

An Ox Lot 9 Charcuterie Board

OL9 Charcuterie Board: Chicken Liver Pate, Andouille, Tasso Ham, Duck Pastrami, Chaurice, Traditional Accompaniments

            The duck pastrami was the star of the charcuterie plate.  It was well prepared, well seasoned, and had a flavorful layer of fat to give the duck some depth. The Pate was covered with blueberries that added a fruity note to its creamy richness. The andouille and chaurice added some nice spice to the plate.

Southern Cheese Plate: Whipped Chevre & Tiger Sauce, Red Dragon Cheddar, Humboldt Fog, Beene Seed Brittle, Seasonal Garnishes

            The cheese plate offered a nice range of light (Chevre) to spicy (Red Dragon) to goat (Humboldt Fog). Scattered pieces of melon and other fruit complemented the cheeses. Nothing fancy here, just a nice collection of flavorful and different cheeses.

Pork Belly “YaKa Mein”: Udon Noodles, Black Eyed Peas, Arugula, Grilled Scallions, Smoked Green Tomato Relish, Soft Poached Egg

            The egg was expertly poached, easily breaking apart into the broth. The Green Tomato Relish offered a smokiness that contrasted the sweetness of the pork belly.  The mix of Asian ingredients, like Udon noodles, and southern ones, like black eyed peas wound up being a wonderful fusion of East and West.

Pork Belly YaKa Mein 

Seared Red Snapper & Lobster: Sweet Corn Cream, Roasted Okra, Covey Rise Tomatoes, Chili Vinaigrette

            This was Doug’s entrée and he thought it was well conceived and well executed. The fish had a good sear, the local tomatoes offered acid, the sweet corn cream added a touch of fat, and the chili vinaigrette brought just a bit of heat. This was an excellent example of how Ox Lot 9 lets the ingredients shine through.

Seared Duck Breast: Cast Iron Spoon Bread, Acadian Honey, Braised Kale, Cherry Demi-glace

            As with the fish, the duck breast was cooked perfectly. The skin was cooked to a golden crispy perfection. The accompaniments played nicely off one another adding sweetness, fruit, and some earthy greens. The spoon bread, with a bit of char on the edges, added an almost savory element to the dish.

Roasted Chicken & Dumplings: Bogalusa Pastured Chicken, Handmade Potato Gnocchi, Leeks, Young Carrots, Asparagus, Farm Greens, Truffle Pan Sauce

            This play on chicken and dumplings far exceeded the often pedestrian presentation of this old southern classic. Well cooked local chicken was paired with light and pillowy potato gnocchi to bring a fine dining twist to this well worn southern staple.

            Sometimes in fine dining, chefs neglect desserts. Well worn staples like molten lava cake or cheesecake are clear signs that the restaurant doesn’t really care about dessert. There are no such concerns at Ox Lot 9. Particular standouts included a play on milk and cookies with ice cream subbing in for milk with a walnut and Belgian chocolate cookie. There were seasonal slices of apple pie with sweet potatoes and tarts.

A play on milk and cookies for dessert 

            The hallmark of a great New Orleans restaurant is fantastic food coupled with impeccable service. Ox Lot 9 lives up to and far exceeds those expectations. The husband-wife team of chef Jeffrey and general manager Amy Hansell have made sure that service is just as important as the food. Servers moved across the room purposefully checking on their tables and clearing plates, silverware, and glasses without fail. When the ice in a drink had melted, one of the servers poured some from the water glass. Then brought over a glass filled with extra ice. When Casey and Chris wanted to share the pork belly appetizer, the kitchen split it into two bowls without being asked. No wine glass stayed empty. The bartender sliced lemon rinds for drinks fresh with every order and tasted every cocktail before handing it to a customer. It’s this level of detail that separates the good restaurants from the great ones. And right now, Ox Lot 9 is truly something special.